Faith in the Hills

Almora is a very beautiful, peaceful, and soulful city situated in the middle Himalayas of Uttarakhand. It owns a rich history and glorious stories, and in that history live its old temples. The temple, whose walls protect its marvelous architecture and mythological stories that have kept alive the centuries-old identity of the region, the king, and the community.

I am fortunate that I got the chance to visit Almora’s 4 major temples, and I will be sharing about them in this blog.

Katar Mal Sun Temple

The visit to this temple was not in the plan, I didn’t even know about it when I stepped out for that day. I was on the field for the survey in Almora, and as always, there were 5-6 entrepreneurs lined up for the visit on that day as well. So coming back to the topic, we (me and the rapido wale Bhaiya) started further from Kosi market, after interviewing Snjay Singh (Udhyami), to meet Sunita Di (Udhyami), 5-6 KMs before her location, there was a huge gate written “Katarmal Sun Temple.” After meeting Sunita Di, I asked her, “Di ye Mandir kaha hai?” to which she replied- “Ye yahi hai ek dedh KMs dur, aap jao na dekh ke aao.”

Katar Mal Temple

So I asked the Rapido wale bhaiya if it is possible for him to be there, as I was done with all the meetings of that day. He agreed to some extra pay. It was at a secluded place with 2-3 shops selling Prasad. You need to climb a kachcha road from the pakka road to reach the temple. The best part was that there were only 10 – 15 people in the temple premises.

The Katarmal Sun Temple is located around 17 KMs from Almora market, dedicated to the god Sun, built by King Katarmal in the 9th century of the Katyuri dynasty. Apart from the main, bigger shrine, it consists of 45 smaller shrines in the temple premises.

According to mythology, the sun God, Surya revered here as a life-giver and healer. The temple’s orientation is such that the first rays of the rising sun fall directly on the deity, symbolizing cosmic balance, something deeply rooted in the Vedic tradition.

For centuries, priests from the same family have been performing puja there; the one I met is the 11th generation of that family.

Kasar Devi Temple

This is the nearest temple to my location, around 8 KMs from Almora Market. And that is why it is one of the most visited temples for me. One of the main attractions of Almora City for foreigners. Its architecture is comparatively new and modern. Kasar Devi is believed to be a form of Goddess Durga.

Kasar Devi
It is more important because of the magnetic energy field it holds; it is one of the 3 points in the Van Allen Belts discovered by NASA. Situated near Almora, the area is one of only three places worldwide with such high magnetic intensity, often compared to Stonehenge and Machu Picchu. This phenomenon is believed to enhance meditation, spiritual calmness, and create a powerful, silent atmosphere for visitors.

It is as old as the 2nd Century, but it gained popularity/recognition in the 20th century when thinkers and travelers such as Swami Vivekananda and D. H. Lawrence visited the area to meditate and find inspiration.

A lot of Almorian youth find this palace to be a hangout spot, hence it is one of the most crowded places here. So on various special occasions, this place is overcrowded with devotees.

Chitai Golu Devta Temple (God of Justice)

This is another unique form of worship. This temple is full of bells (Ghanti) all over its walls and gates, along with papers carrying people’s wishes, and legal court cases.

Chitai Golu Dev Temple

This is the second most visited temple by me in Almora, again because of the distance, which is under 10 KMs, and Rapido services are available till there, hence the commute is easy. Lord Chitai is considered the incarnation of Shiva or a king who was known for his justice. And in the hope that lord Chitae will bring justice to them, there are various court cases paper can be seen hanging with the bells.

The temple is believed to have been established during the Chand Dynasty, and over time, it has become a symbol of faith in justice and truth among local communities. The temple stands as a living tradition where faith blends with everyday life, making it not just a place of worship but also a cultural institution.

Jageshwar Dham Temple

This is the farthest temple among the four, around 40 KMs from my location. And surprisingly, there are no direct buses or taxis to the temple; you have to switch vehicles and travel in parts to reach there, or if you have enough pocket size then you can book a taxi which charges around 1500-2000 for both up and down to the temple. This is one of the major reasons I went here only once.

Jageshwar Dham Temple

This temple is very similar to the Katarmal temple in terms of architecture and timeline. It consists of over 100+ ancient stone temples from the 7th to 12th centuries. Primarily built by the Katyuri and Chand dynasties. The architecture reflects the early Himalayan temple style.

It is believed to be one of the 12 Jyotirlingas, and according to local belief, Lord Shiva meditated here amidst the dense forests of deodar trees. One of the most intriguing things shared with me by Kavita Di (my colleague) was about the twin deodar trees in the temple परिसर. These trees are said to symbolize Shiv and Shakti. They appear joined together up to a certain height and then grow separately beyond that point.

The twin Tree
The temple is situated on the banks of the Jata Ganga river, and across the river lies a shamshan ghat where, it is believed, at least one cremation takes place every day. However, on rare days when no cremation happens, locals say that the twin trees begin to shake. To prevent this, a priest in the temple premises performs a ritual where a blanket is burned, symbolically representing a cremation, to maintain balance and keep the trees calm.
It may be difficult to find a logical explanation for this belief, but it continues to be an accepted and respected part of the temple’s living traditions.

In the end, these temples are not just a place of worship, but living stories of Almora’s past and present. Each temple holds something different: history, faith, mystery, and a deep connection with the people who visit them. These spaces reflect how culture and belief continue to shape everyday life in the hills.