Kulasekarapattinam, a coastal town in Thoothukudi district of Tamil Nadu is in news for the construction of India’s second rocket launching facility an strategic step to save fuel and increase payload efficiency while launching of small satellite vehicles. Along with modern scientific developments, the town hoist deep cultural roots from the Pandyan dynasty, infamous for its 300-year-old Arulmigu Mutharaman Temple and the vibrant annual Kulasai Dasara festival.
While talking to one of my friends from Tamil Nadu, I got to learn in depth about the festival of Kulasai Dasara, a ten day festival concluding on the day of Vijayadashmi, marked as celebration of good over evil. One must not mistake this festival from Ramayana where Ram or the righteousuness wins over – Ravana or the evil. Though the spirit of the festival is same but the way it fills the town with the colors and the rituals behind the festival makes it stunning and distinguished, mentioned, my friend. He explained about the festival, as a 10 day celebration at Mutharamana Temple and the shores of the town where entire village and people from different land fills up the town. Devotee or the participants in the festival dress up as gods, and goddessed occupying various forms of Kali like MayanaKali, BhadraKali and other characters like kings and beggars and many more celestial beings. These devotees, often painted and adorned with bold makeup, act as if they are possessed by divine powers. The festival signifies the need of sacrifice for fulling the vows, many devotees who take up the disguise character.
He also mentioned that, one of the main attractions of the festival is the portrayal of Goddess Durga slaying the demon king Mahishasura. The festival culminates on Vijayadashami, with a grand procession to the seashore, symbolizing Durga’s victory over evil. Devotees, dressed as the goddess, dance to traditional music and take a sacred dip in the sea to mark the end of the celebrations. Many of them make predictions, collect alms, and offer blessings to the attendees.
He grew up in a city, and religion was never a big part of his life. His world was all about photography, capturing light, moments, and stories through his camera. Then one day, he saw a photograph that caught his attention. It showed a face painted bright red, with intense eyes that felt powerful and almost otherworldly. Something about it stayed with him. What surprised him even more was learning that in this festival, only men dress up in these divine forms, known as Vesham. Curious to see it for himself, he decided to visit and take pictures. But things didn’t go as planned. His camera was stolen from his hostel. Still, with the help of another photographer, he didn’t give up and somehow made his way into the crowd.
When he reached there, he was completely amazed. Everywhere he looked, people had transformed into different forms of Kali, bodies painted in bold colors, wearing sarees, heavy jewellery, and even extra arms attached to their costumes. There was a kind of raw emotion in the way they moved- fierce, intense, and full of energy. He saw people dancing to traditional music, and some of them seemed to go into a trance. Many believe this is a state of divine possession. In those moments, they would move differently, speak in unusual voices, almost as if a goddess was speaking through them. What struck him was how everyone around treated this with deep respect. People would come forward, bow, and ask for blessings. This practice gives the festival an intense spiritual atmosphere and makes it a one-of-a-kind experience.
After witnessing such an experience, my friend, who is not so much into religion, found his calling to live this experience, to try something adventurous, only for the sake of experiencing this once in a life time thing and not for any religious purposes, he clarified. He began discussing with people around and came to understand the rituals, penances and sacrifices one needs to make to be a participant in a 10 day festival whose preparation began 2 months before the actual festival.
He spoke to people around and understood that anyone who wants to take part in the festival usually begins by taking a vow. It is a personal choice, something meaningful to them. Since he didn’t have any strong religious belief, he wasn’t sure what to choose at first. After some thought, he made a simple vow, for the well-being of everyone, especially for his parents to stay healthy in their old age.
As part of his journey, he decided to observe a 41-day fast. During this time, he ate only raw rice, which was not easy for him. He also got both his ears pierced by traditional methods at the beginning of the fast, as it was needed later to take up the full disguise during the festival. Even though he felt a bit uncomfortable about it, he went ahead with it. Along with this, he started visiting the local temple regularly and followed the rituals in his own way.He told me he never liked seeing his mother fast on different occasions, but now he was going through something similar himself. Even though it was challenging, he continued with it, wanting to fully experience what the festival meant.
Next, he had to decide which disguise he would take. Since he didn’t have any strong religious inclination, he chose a red-colored Kali form called BhadraKali. When I asked him why, he said that applying red color on the body is easier compared to colors like blue or green, and it blends better with his skin tone. But religiously, BhadraKali is known as a protector who grants good fortune (Bhadra) and carries a blood shed energy. I could see a connection between his vow and the disguise he chose. As part of his preparation, he joined a group and started collecting everything he needed from the street market near the shore. He bought red body colors, a saree, and jewellery. He also took help from some women from the same group to get ready and chose a few pairs of heavy earrings on his own. By the end of it, he was ready to take part in the 10-day festival.
Now comes the 10 day festival of deeds, that will reap rewards for the devotees who had done penance to fulfill their vows or like my friend, just experience or live the energy. He came to stay at the temple premises. The holy days began with many mandatory rituals and praying at the temple. One of such ritual was to collect alms from the people in the village, and donate it in the “hundi” or the temple accounts. Many people donated in cash or kind like rice and other grains. My friend followed through all rituals, little did he make sense of underlying reasoning but just for experiencing something new. On the seventh day, he took up the attire for the disguise he chose, adorned with half saree, along with jewellery like necklaces, jhumkas, and other ornaments. He also had multiple hands attached to his shoulders, got a subtle make up and a mandatory mundmala – skull garland around neck, as prime adornment of Kali. While he looked himself in the mirror, he could hardly believe it, while tracing back this story. After offering prayers in the temple, the participants reach to the sea shore where they come together to dance in groupsAmong the crowd, they were no longer seen as ordinary people—they were treated like gods. People came to them for blessings and good wishes. Many participants absorbed the character and acted fiercely, screaming, dancing and calling out Gods in weird voices. This intense energy was especially seen during the last three days, leading up to the final day of the festival. Some devotees take part in firewalking rituals. In this act, people walk over burning coals, believing they are protected by the goddess. Firewalking symbolizes their deep faith and commitment to the goddess.
On the last day of Kulasai Dasara is the procession of Goddess Mutharamman and Lord Ganesha idols. Decorated with colorful flowers and ornaments, these idols are taken through the village on a large chariot. The whole village comes alive with people pulling the chariot, chanting prayers, and playing traditional music and traditional Tamil dances like Parai Attam (a dance with drums) and Oyilattam are performed.
Despite all the fierceness and liveliness in the environment for 10 days, my friend was silently absorbing the feeling of being present in a not so human form. While adorning as a Goddess Kali, he found himself in the position of giving, where people approached for his blessings, he felt fortunate as he always believed in the supremacy of “act of giving”. He told me about the resilience he has build by putting through pain and sacrifice throughout the festival. He has learnt about what it feels like staying away from his desires and attached costs and gains for it. Through this 10 day festival and months of penance, he has connected with himself more deeply and embraced raw form of feminity and divinity in himself and in the others. He wishes to joins the festival again but not in fierce forms rather more peaceful forms.
Kulasekarapattinam, is a living example of coexisting of scientific developments and traditional culture. Let me know in the comments if you have ever visited or wish to give feasts to your senses by experiencing this once in a lifetime festival.
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